The cow teaches you to make aurora fog LED lights with RGB LED
Let's take a look at how this aurora fog LED light is made!
Step 1 circuit diagram
The circuit diagram is shown above. In this version, an infrared receiver is added. All functions can be controlled by SONY's home appliance remote control.
Step 2 works
The circuit uses RGB LEDs and 12-bit PWM to make the brightness more smooth when changing. The human eye is nonlinear in response to light intensity, so the software makes a gamma correction on the brightness curve to give a visual experience with uniform brightness.
The circuit uses a combination of pulse modulation and multiplex drive: each pulse width modulation cycle is split into multiple pulses, and the three primary color diodes are respectively driven, so that the three primary color diodes are respectively illuminated several times in a pulse modulation cycle (probably A bit like a mixture of pulse width modulation and pulse delta modulation), and the average brightness output of the entire full color diode is proportional to the number of pulses during this time. This not only reduces the visible flicker of the LED by illuminating the three primary colors at different frequencies, but also increases the pulse modulation resolution by combining multiple pulse width modulated pulses. However, the flashing frequency of the LED after the visible flicker is still high, so that the refresh rate of the aurora looks much higher than 123Hz.
Looking at the timing chart, I took the R/G/B bus signals of the seven LEDs to illustrate my concept. As you can see, the R/G/B channels are lit alternately, and these pulses control the exact lighting period of the LEDs. When any of the R/G/B buses is at a high level, the LED will illuminate. The total lighting period and color are determined by the high level combination of the R/G/B bus.
Step 3 board
The double-layer board is fine, the full-color LED pins are thick, and the pads are larger.
Step 4 component list
resistance
4x 47 Ohm (0603)
162x 150Ohm (0603)
9x 220 Ohm (0603)
13x 1k Ohm (0603)
4x 10k Ohm (0603)
capacitance
1x 0.1uF (0603)
2x 10uF (1206)
1x 22uF (1210)
Transistor and MOSFET
3x DMP3098L
9x MMBT2222A
Single chip microcomputer
1x PIC24FV16KA301
Infrared receiver
1x VS1838
Tact switch
1x Tactile Switch
Full color LED (total)
162x Tricolor LED (common-cathode)
The tools I used during the production process:
Good lighting
Magnifying glass - whether there is short circuit or cold welding after welding
Tweezers-patch component picking
Adjustable temperature anti-static soldering iron - mine is 936 soldering station, generally adjust the temperature of the soldering iron, please pay attention to grounding anti-static
Tips - depending on personal welding habits, I use 2C solder patch, pointed solder LED, horseshoe soldering microcontroller
Solder - depending on personal soldering habits, the patch is 0.4mm and the LED is 1mm
Rosin - essentials
Sucker - very important, more convenient than the tin strip
Pliers - LED pin cutting
Scissors - commonly used
Wire - commonly used
Microchip PICKIT3 Programmer - Programmable Program for Microcontroller PIC24FV16KA301
Step 5 assembly steps
First solder the single chip PIC24FV16KA301, then solder all the chip resistance and capacitance components from the inside to the outside. After soldering, check the OK and then solder the LED.
The board is placed - when I solder, the board is placed in the direction shown in Figure 1. All the back picture boards will be placed in this direction.
All the components of the chip are soldered, carefully check to ensure that there is no short circuit, the phenomenon of soldering, the resistance of 150 ohms should pay special attention, because after the LED is soldered, this resistor is difficult to re-weld unless the LED is removed.. .
When the LED is installed, it is divided into 18 sectors, 9 per sector. Insert the LED first and squeeze it in the middle so that the LED pins and pads are in full contact. Then connect the power supply and press the tact switch to the solid color mode. At this time, please check if the LED is working normally. Is the red, green and blue colors all bright, the color brightness is consistent, please select it if it is inconsistent, I made it, 162 Three of the LEDs are particularly bright.
Need to pay attention to the direction of the LED, the end of the LED with the red arrow on the figure is flat, and the other end of the LED is round. If the plug is reversed, the LED will not be bright.
Step 6 power supply
The power supply can use a single-cell lithium battery. It can be powered by a 5V regulated power supply. It can be connected in series with 3- or 4-cell NiMH batteries. It can be powered from the USB interface.
It should be noted that in order to reduce the size of the circuit, there is no power supply voltage regulation and anti-reverse circuit, so the power supply must not be reversed, especially when testing, look at it clearly and then connect it. The power supply voltage should not exceed 5.5V, which is more than the damage of the microcontroller.
Adding a power interface yourself will be much easier.
Step 7 Remote Control and Control Operation
The remote control code in the program uses the SONY code, which needs to be changed to the definition of other remote controllers.
In the program, the red 5-way button in the figure below is used, and the upper and lower modes are switched. The left and right are speed changes, and the middle is pause/start.
I only have SONY compatible small remote control on hand, there is no 5-way button, so I changed the code, and other function keys are consistent with the original.
Step 8 software
I used MPLAB IDE v8.80 to compile the software. Now the latest version is v8.88. MPLAB X IDE has not been tried, it should be possible.
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